Sun streams through the window and Pete Murray’s 'Free' blares from the stereo as the city shrinks in the rearview mirror. Heading north on the M1, Sydney’s bright lights make way for riverside towns, vast tracts of bushland, dramatic waterways and coastal inlets.

Feel your shoulders drop as you cross the Mooney Mooney Bridge, the heady waft of salt and eucalyptus on the breeze. It’s here in the pristine waters of Broken Bay you’ll find NSW’s only pearl farm where third generation farmers harvest the precious local Akoya pearl. When an oversized dinosaur (Ploddy) greets you atop a bushy outcrop – the home of the Australian Reptile Park – it’s time to steer towards the coast. Ascending the mountainside drive towards Woy Woy, far reaching vistas over Brisbane Waters open up before you.

Blessed with a magnificent coastline, secluded inlets, pretty waterways and a beautiful hinterland to boot, the region once known as “God’s waiting room” has undergone a renaissance in recent years with a raft of new restaurant, bar and cafe openings. Head south for Bouddi National Park, fish and chips at Patonga or wend your way north for the iconic Norah Head Lighthouse, exploring the coast’s uncrowded beaches along the way.

Slip into the slow lane on the scenic drive to Lake Macquarie. The largest permanent salt water lake in the Southern Hemisphere (twice the size of Sydney Harbour), Lake Macquarie offers old world charm in spades. Holiday shacks perch on the water’s edge, sailboats bob on the tide, pelicans glide into land and kids fish off wooden jetties.

Many of its sleepy lakeside towns and villages are virtually unchanged since the 1950s and 60s; others are shaking things up with cool cafes and smart waterside restaurants lapped by the tide.

There’s a staggering 174km of shoreline and 90 towns to explore, yet surprisingly many pockets like Caves Beach, Catherine Hill Bay and Redhead (all renowned surf spots) remain invitingly crowd free. On the eastern shore explore the network of sea caves at low tide at Caves Beach, take a kayak out for a paddle or hire a tinny before tucking into prawns from the fisherman’s co-op at Swansea.

On the lake’s western side you’ll find Dobell House, once home to Archibald Prize winning artist Sir William Dobell, Museum of Art and Culture, and the Creative Lake sculpture trail with installations scattered along Warners Bay’s foreshore.

With Silverchair’s 'Straight Lines' on your playlist, push on for the band’s hometown of Newcastle, a city forged by coal and steel reinventing itself as one of Australia’s coolest coastal cities. Veer off the Pacific Highway at Scenic Drive where soaring red gums and waterfalls tumble down to the rolling Pacific Ocean.

Pull into the carpark above Merewether Ocean Baths (the largest in the Southern Hemisphere) for ocean vistas extending north to Dixon Park and Bar Beach where surfers and dolphins often frolic together in the waves.

From there follow the coastline to Strzelecki Lookout where the Anzac Memorial Walk (part of the 6km Bathers Way) offers gob smacking vistas of the Pacific Ocean and out to the Hunter Valley from the clifftop walkway. As you roll down to Australia’s second oldest city, you’ll pass historic homes and the lush King Edward Park before arriving in the compact CBD girt by sea.

Here Nobbys Lighthouse and the historic Fort Scratchley stand guard over the bustling port and you’ll find hip cafés rather than a pub on every corner. Fringed by spectacular beaches, a bustling working harbour and home to laidback locals, explore a city undergoing a mighty metamorphosis.

In winter follow the Humpback Highway and keep an eye on the ocean; in summer let the shrill of cicadas guide you northeast to Port Stephens. En route, watch the F/A18s take off from the RAAF Base Williamtown, stop off for a craft beer at Murray's Brewery or detour via Lemon Tree Passage for a lazy lunch overlooking bobbing boats. Onwards make for d’Albora Marinas Nelson Bay – the heart of this popular water playground.

Generations of Australians have flocked to Port Stephens for its natural beauty, abundant wildlife, oysters by the bay, safe swimming beaches and deep blue waters home to playful dolphins, and in season, whales in their thousands.

Hang a right and follow the shoreline to Shoal Bay. After making the heart pumping ascent of Tomaree Headland take in commanding views of Port Stephens and the North Coast all the way to Cabbage Tree and Boondelbah islands, the world’s only nesting sites for the endangered Gould's petrel.

Join Oakfield Ranch for a camel ride across the Stockton Sand Dunes, the largest moving coastal sand mass in the Southern Hemisphere, and grab drinks on the deck of the Little BeachBoathouse or the Shoal Bay Country Club. You’re almost guaranteed to see dolphins in the calm, sparkling waters.

The longest stretch of the drive winds through coastal national parks and past pretty waterways. Set your GPS for Town Beach where the Norfolk pine-lined shore offers golden sand and rolling surf one side; the mighty Hastings River the other. Walk some or all of the9km coastal walkway to the picturesque Tacking Point Lighthouse, exploring but a few of Port Macquarie’s pristine beaches linked by timber boardwalks along the way.

Grab some fish and chips at Town Green at sunset, tuck into freshly shucked oysters on a floating pontoon or sample the Mid Coast’s finest seafood and produce at Port’s smart restaurants and cafes. And no visit to Port Macquarie is complete without a trip to the one-of-a-kind Koala Hospital.

Officially recognised as the bodyboard capital of Australia, catch a wave anywhere between the Breakwall, a powerful and hollow right-hand wedge and the town's north shore, and Lighthouse Beach.

Scientifically proven to have the best climate in Australia (not too hot; not too cold) Port Macquarie has long been a retiree hotspot.Now Port’s beautiful beaches, verdant hinterland, waterfalls and rivers have lured a new wave of sea changers, brewers, restaurateurs, artisans and baristas who call the former penal colony home. If you can drag yourself away from the coast, you’ll be rewarded with tumbling waterfalls and picturesque hinterland townships like Wauchope and Comboyne.

Around midway between Sydney and Brisbane, the one pub coastal town of South West Rocks flies largely under the radar. The fact it’s a little hard to reach has helped preserve this unspoiled holiday spot on the NSW North Coast (the second most easterly point in the state).

Veer off the highway just past Kempsey for a scenic drive along the mighty Macleay River as it wends its way through lush farmland. Once you arrive at the sleepy township, surfing, beach cricket and barefoot walks along sandy bush tracks to deserted stretches of sand await.

Explore six beautiful beaches, drift snorkel or take a paddle board tour down Back Creek, dine on freshly caught local fish with a backdrop of live music at Full Circle and explore the historic Trial Bay Gaol where the sun sets over a rare west facing beach. Trial Bay’s calm waters make it particularly safe for kids.

Nearby vistas over Hat Head National Park from Smokey Cape Lighthouse, one of Australia’s oldest lighthouses, reward those who make the short but steep climb. Fish Rock Cave meanwhile is the Southern Hemisphere’s largest ocean cavern. Home to grey nurse sharks it’s rated one of Australia’s best dive sites.

Think Coffs Harbour and it’s a big banana that comes to mind. Big Banana Fun Park, 5km north of town, is the biggest water park between Sydney and the Gold Coast. But what about the beaches? Coffs Harbour is in the middle of a 90km stretch of sub-tropical coastline – it’s the only spot in Australia you’ll see sub-alpine mountains, sub-tropical rainforest and a sub-marine underwater sanctuary in the one place.

There are great beaches in the heart of town, like the popular Jetty Beach. Park the car there and stroll 5min north for the scenic walk around Muttonbird Nature Reserve. Then check out cafes, restaurants and boutique stores at Coffs Harbour’s trendy International Marina next door.

You’ll find some of the best beaches are just north of town; take turn-offs from the highway to Moonee Beach, Diggers Beach and Emerald Beach. The Surf Street Café at Emerald Beach offers views of dolphins and kangaroos. The Solitary Islands are just offshore – watch for whales between June and October.

Turn west off the highway to enter Russell Crowe country. The Coffs Hinterland, oddly unheralded, is home to world-famous hermits like the Gladiator star. Activities include river-rafting and hiking, though a quick drive-through the beautiful scenery is an attraction itself.

Cruise 25km north of Coffs to Woolgooga, with its distinctive Guru Nanak Sikh Temple. Each September the town celebrates its Punjabi heritage with Curryfest. You’ll also find one of the region’s finest fish and chip shops, White Salt. Woolgooga Headland is ideal for whale watching; behind it, go stand-up paddle boarding or kayaking on Woolgooga Lake.

Ten kilometres north, turn off to Red Rock. It’s a short detour, but here the Corindi River flows to a headland of major significance to the local Aboriginal people. Stop at the Yarrawarra Aboriginal Cultural Centre, home to the Wadjar Regional Aboriginal Art Gallery and Yarrawarra Bush Tucker Café. Walk alonge the Corindi Creek Mangrove Boardwalk, or swim in the rockpools on the headland.

Continue north, driving alongside the Clarence River to Yamba, the classic Aussie surf village. There’s five beaches set beside a streetscape of earthy cafes where surfers gather. Have a drink or meal at the 86-year-old Pacific Hotel, with views across town’s main beach and the breakwall where the river empties to the sea.

Turn south again to Angourie, NSW’s first national surfing reserve. Try a vegan bowl at boho hangout Café Angourie or lunch at buzzy Barbaresco Restaurant. It’s a short walk to the wide sandy bay, Spooky Beach, then through coastal forest to the Blue and Green Pools, freshwater swimming holes close to the beach.

Follow the river back out of town to Maclean, the Scottish Town Of Australia. It’s so close to the banks of the river that boats are anchored just metres from its main street. Stroll down streets of art galleries and craft stores, then stop at the town’s best caffeine fix, Botero. Check out the roastery through floor-to-ceiling windows. For a better perspective of where you are, drive two kilometres out of town to The Pinnacle, a rock formation that gives amazing views of the area.

The highway north takes you through sugar country. Drive between the slow-flowing Richmond River and endless hectares of sugarcane tended to by farmers on giant harvesters. You’ll pass by tiny highway hamlets like Woodburn where sugar mills cast cane smoke into the sky. The air never smelt so sweet.

Continue on to Ballina, built where the Richmond River flows to the Pacific. It’s the incredibly under-rated beaches of East Ballina you can’t miss. Catch the ferry across to South Ballina to drive the beach if you have a 4WD.

Drive just east of town and take the walking trail from North Wall (where the river meets the sea) to Angel Beach, stopping at Lighthouse Beach and Shelley Beach along the way. There’s some top cafes here – The Lighthouse Beach Café looks out across to where surfers ride waves, or meet the locals at cool hangout The Belle General.

Take your time on this too-often-overlooked drive north – Coastal Drive 30 takes you past bay after bay of beaches few have heard of. Turn into Flat Rock and stroll to Angels Beach along the Coastal Recreation Path, or walk over the headland from Sharpes Beach to Boulders Beach. Stop again at Pat Morton Lookout for views across one of the most revered surf breaks in Australia, Lennox Point. Watch hang gliders leap into the heavens (feel like joining them? Lennox Head Hang Gliding School offers tandem flights). It’s also the perfect spot for whale-watching.

Drive a kilometre north to Lennox Head with its main street of coastal chic cafes, restaurants and health food stores, while Lake Ainsworth (a freshwater lagoon just north of town) is where locals swim laps.

Approaching Byron, turn right into Broken Head Nature Reserve, where rainforest meets arguably the town’s prettiest (and least publicised) beach. Keep an eye out for low-key local, Chris Hemsworth.

In town, park near Main Beach, the centre of all the action. Take the walk along the beach to the lighthouse, swimming at The Pass and Wategos along the way. Or drive to Cape Byron Lighthouse, Australia’s most easterly point.

Allow time to meander down town’s eclectic main street, stopping at boutique stores and quirky cafes, while being entertained by buskers and Byron’s eclectic locals. Nab an outside table at Australia’s most iconic watering hole, The Beach Hotel, for views across Main Beach to marine sanctuary, Julian Rocks.

Though Byron Bay gets the world’s attention, it’s only a part of what there is to see in this corner of NSW. Ride the highway north and see how this hemisphere’s largest shield volcano shapes the hinterland, creating kilometre-high green mountains. On your right, there are quaint fishing towns like Brunswick Heads; have lunch at the region’s oldest watering hole, Hotel Brunswick, looking over a river dissecting town.

Turn off the Pacific Highway to the Tweed Coast Road which cuts through sleepy surf towns like Pottsville, Hastings Point and Cabarita (home to the Hamptons-esque hotel, Halcyon House, and hatted restaurant, Paper Daisy). Walk the quiet beaches that border these towns or stroll alongside the river at Kingscliff, 15min north, where trendy cafes and restaurants look across to Cook Island.

Don’t miss hidden gem Murwillumbah, though you’ll need to double back 25km to find it. Discover its quirky, art deco cafes, art galleries and heritage cinema, The Regent, and explore hinterland villages built around Wollumbin (Mt Warning).

Drive 20min further north to seaside hamlet, Fingal. A huge pod of resident dolphins patrol a stunning headland and you can look for green turtles, too. Tweed Heads, 14km north, marks the end of the road.