Leave the city in your rearview mirror as you head south. Turn off the highway at either Farnell Avenue, just south of Loftus, or at McKell Avenue at Waterfall, to reach your first destination – the magnificent Royal National Park. Whether a sunny day or even in the rain, Australia’s oldest national park – established in 1879 – is mind-blowing. Dew drops shine on cabbage tree palms, ferns, Gymea lilies, tall eucalypts and casuarinas as you wind your way towards the coast.

Diversity is the key here. Visit the calm water of the lagoon and beach at Wattamolla, perfect for snorkelling, swimming, liloing or fishing (though rangers ask that you don’t jump off the waterfall); look for Aboriginal engravings at Jibbon Headland and admire the 1940s Audley Dance Hall.

On the Coast Track from Bundeena to Otford, as you bird-watch you may also spot breaching whales on their migrations. You can complete the walk in small sections or do the whole 26km over two days. Drive to Garie or clamber down steep rocky tracks to the beaches of Era, Burning Palms and Bulgo with their Depression-era heritage-listed shacks. Residents who tightly hold their inherited leases tell stories of their parents carrying building materials all the way from Otford train station.

Slightly further south take Lady Wakehurst Drive out of the national park, stopping at Bald Hill, overlooking Stanwell Park from where you can ogle brave hang-gliders.

Continue on the Grand Pacific Drive via Lawrence Hargrave Drive, named after the famous aviation pioneer. Detour back to Helensburgh near the Princes Highway turn-off for Symbio Wildlife Park to pat pandas and mingle with meerkats.

Then drive over the spectacular Sea Cliff Bridge – a sight worth an entire road trip in itself – and arrive at the coastal-hugging former coal-mining towns of Austinmer, Thirroul and Bulli. These are the hip centres of the South Coast, with a step-back-in time groove that has always attracted arty types. English writer DH Lawrence wrote his Australian classic, Kangaroo, while ensconced in Thirroul in 1922.

Today the close-knit community loves the perfect, small beaches and ocean pools, including the 1914 ‘Austi’ pools and the mystery artist’s canvas, Isabelle Boulton’s Chair, at Bells Point. Don’t miss the steep rainforest walk up to Sublime Point from Austinmer.

The bookshop/cafe culture now extends to cool bars, boutiques offering artisan shopping and a range of restaurants and delis – check out tree-fringed Moore Street’s graceful old homes in Austinmer. Revamped buildings include the Scarborough Hotel, the Heritage Hotel in Bulli, Anita’s Theatre and the Thirroul Beach Motel.

As you head past Sandon Point and its historic boat sheds, pop on some local folk music in anticipation of the annual Illawarra Folk Festival, held at the Bulli Showground.

Tunes by local surf rock band Hockey Dad seem appropriate as the bright lights of Wollongong beckon you into this rapidly-changing city full of cool bars, galleries and bookshops. European delis and Italian coffee shops reveal its ethnic, industrial heritage, while queues form for the best of Vietnamese and other Asian food.

Take a tour of the Steelworks from the Bluescope Inside Industry Visitor Centre or soak up the heritage of this now totally hip area, Port Kembla, and catch a performance at one of the port’s nightspots.

Eclectic murals by local artists cover walls in the CBD’s hidden laneways and central buildings, many done as part of the Wonderwalls Festival. For a more classical approach visit the Wollongong Art Gallery in Burelli Street, one of the country’s leading regional galleries. Walk along the sands of City Beach to the Wollongong Head Lighthouse (better known as Flagstaff Hill) and Wollongong Breakwater Lighthouse on either side of the harbour and watch wet-suited surfers ride the waves.

Check out the cactus garden at the Botanic Garden in Gwynneville or drive up to Mount Keira. Or for a quieter moment, do a walking meditation class, tour or calligraphy lesson at the Nan Tien Buddhist temple at Berkeley, 20min drive south.

At Shellharbour Village follow the history trail telling of mid-19th century settlers, pop into great clothes and homewares shops or quirky takeaway stores, then wander down the hill to the fishing boat-filled harbour. The Sunday monthly markets at The Farm – part of Killalea State Park – have been called “the best in the Illawarra”, with stalls, live music, clowns and picnic grounds as well as great views.

To find the Farm and Mystics beaches, which have an almost mystical status with surfers, drive through the new suburban area of Shell Cove. For a more child-friendly swimming experience try Elliott Lake, between Warilla and Barrack Point, with its gentle waves. Or for fishing and boating, head to Lake Illawarra.

Drive down Bass Point Tourist Road to Bushrangers Bay, a secluded marine reserve and a snorkellers’ paradise with its own shipwrecked American tanker. Follow the indigenous cultural walk and learn that their rich ecology includes 17 species of fish.

Take a detour to Shellharbour Airport for the HARS Aviation Museum and the Lockheed C-121C Super Constellation, or 'Connie' – a favourite ride of star and amateur pilot John Travolta. Or discover fabulous walks in the hinterland including Bong Bong Mountain in Dapto, Clovers Hill in the Macquarie Pass National Park and Saddleback Mountain near Jamberoo.

Historian Malcolm Bedford wants Kiama to be known as Orry Kelly town, after its most internationally successful export, the Oscar award-winning costume designer who dressed Marilyn Monroe for ‘Some Like it Hot’. You can learn about him, local writer Charmian Clift (a friend of Leonard Cohen), the cedar cutters and farmers who pioneered this area, and its Aboriginal traditional owners at the Pilot’s Cottage Museum.

The museum sits just below Kiama’s most famous attraction, the Blowhole. But don’t forget the less-visited Little Blowhole at Tingira Crescent further south.If you like unusual shapes, on the way into Kiama detour to Bombo Quarry and Cathedral Rocks, now a location for TV ads near the Boneyard. Or take the coast walk to Gerringong.

Mingle with locals at the Kiama Farmers Market for sublime custard and goats’ cheese from Buena Vista Farm, freshly-picked vegetables and scones from The Quiet Cow. Or time your trip for any one of Kiama’s musical festivals. Jazz and Blues, Folk, Cabaret: take your pick.

Stop for a coffee or whale-watching at Gerringong or kayak up Crooked River near Gerroa, the starting point to Seven Mile Beach, next to bird-filled wetlands. Walk or cycle through the forest all the way to Shoalhaven Heads overlooked by Cullunghutti (or Coolangatta) Mountain. A cluster of wineries nestle below its folds.

Nowra, the ‘capital’ of the 4,600sqkm Shoalhaven, is the busiest country town south of Wollongong – a centre for farmers, the Navy and local shoppers. Visit Meroogal, an intriguing museum in a pretty pale-green cottage, which tells stories of four generations of women who lived here, or Bundanon art gallery on the north side of the Shoalhaven River.

Drive up Turpentine Road off the Princes Highway to Jerrawangala Lookout, one of many vantage points once used by indigenous people to send messages, with views from Gerringong to Ulladulla. The national park’s full of rare heath frogs, sooty owls and New Holland honeyeaters. The much rougher Wandean Road (4WD only) linking up with the Braidwood Road and on to Goulburn was the original ‘wool road’ from the Southern Highlands to Jervis Bay.

Back down off the highway, Tomerong School of Arts Hall is a favourite for concerts and dances with bands from Sydney to Melbourne praising its acoustics.

Another side trip from Milton further south is to the Morton National Park and Pigeon House Mountain named by Captain Cook from the Endeavour in 1770 – its traditional Yuin name is Balgan. Climb metal ladders to marvel at the Budawang wilderness.

Turning back down Island Point Road, which becomes the Wool Road, you emerge at the pure white sands and turquoise waters of Jervis Bay. Keep heading along Naval College Road past trendy Hyams Beach to Booderee National Park, and join a guided tour, weaving workshop or campfire yarn, read the tragic stories of former lighthouse keepers at the ruins of Cape St George lighthouse or swim in the gentle waters of the bay.

Drive back to Huskisson, with its cute picture theatre in a former 1913 community hall – often a film festival location – and the Jervis Bay Maritime Museum. Jump onto a boat taking you out to sea to get close to whales and dolphins or dive beneath the surface with playful seals.

On the northern side are the seaside villages of Callala Bay, Callala Beach and Currarong, entry point to the Beecroft Peninsula, the bay’s northern headland, where you can walk to the 1899 Point Perpendicular Lighthouse.

But to get there from Huskisson you’ll need to zip back to the highway and take Forest Road to the east, as the town’s cut off by Currambene Creek, only negotiable by boat or a weekend Husky ferry service to Myola. Maybe there’ll even be time for a meal at the Husky pub.